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If you are using Firefox, you can install FireBug, edit the CSS and get instant WISIWIG. The downside is that I don't think you can save the resultant changes. However you could always cut and paste into the source file using a second editor such as Notepad.
Me, I use Dreamweaver.
For a smart, cheap-but-not-free, editor take a look at Textpad. It "knows" about the syntax of a shed load of languages, and can do things such as "view in browser", compare 2 files, and block cut & paste.
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Old programmers never die, they just disassemble.
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